At first glance it barely caught my attention; pale, faint pear, faint almonds. In the mouth, to begin with, it was pure tension. The liquid version of a wire sculpture, glittering with acidity. But very quickly it began to build in the mouth, layering nuttiness with sweet lemon over zest and then sunflower seeds. Tension turned to intensity that lingered long after the wine had gone.
This wine, so delicious and intentional now, will get more complex and interesting with age. At each stage of its development it will be a brilliant food wine. While it’s young, think fresh spring green: peas and pea shoots, asparagus, dishes made with lots of fresh herbs, green pesto, lemon zest, ricotta and delicate seafood. As it ages it will be able to take richer dishes: pork belly with braised fennel, lobster, scallops in creamy dill sauce, a hard mountain cheese.