The night before harvest, winemaker Antonio Fattori confesses, he’s always a little bit nervous. Even though his family has been making wine for generations and he knows that all the pieces are in place, every year he has the same feeling. “The night before, I feel like a beginner. I feel my stomach is strange, I can’t sleep. Then when you start, everything goes well and you know what to do, but the night before is always like the night before your exams in university.”

That Fattori, a seasoned winemaker, still feels this way even just … read all    »
Fattori explains that the location of the vineyards is perfect for the white grapes he grows. They are at the foot of the Alps, with a fresh stream nearby. There is a very low temperature in the morning, even in the summer, and then the heat increases quickly before dropping again at night. The volcanic soil is essential to the minerality, freshness and aroma of the wines.

The red grapes are also well-placed for the qualities Fatorri hopes for in his wines. The Col de la Bastia 2011 Valpolicella, which is rich and very drinkable at this age, has sweet and delicate tannin and a nice mouthfeel. This is one that I would pick up to enjoy with dinner right now – it could age a bit longer, but it’s drinking just fine today.

The Amarone, a 2009, should age well, it’s a bit young right now, but the potential is clear. …
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